What Is Barrier Cream? What Does It Do and Who Should Use It?

What Is Barrier Cream?

Barrier cream is a topical product that contains the three components forming the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids) or their precursors, with the aim of repairing the skin's permeability barrier. The most important job of the stratum corneum is to keep water in and external stressors out, and it is the intercellular lipid lamellae that carry out this job.^{Elias, 2005} When those lamellae thin out or their composition is disturbed, water loss (TEWL) rises, irritants pass through easily, and the skin becomes tight, itchy and red. This is exactly where a barrier cream's work begins: going beyond surface hydration to replace the missing lipids.

We explain how the barrier works and why it breaks down in the Skin Barrier Guide, and cover the repair process in detail in the Barrier Repair Guide.

The Difference Between Barrier Cream and Moisturizer

Moisturizers work through one or more of three mechanisms: humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) draw water into the stratum corneum, occlusives (petrolatum, dimethicone) form a film that slows evaporation, and emollients fill the spaces between corneocytes and smooth the surface.^{Lynde, 2001} A barrier cream uses all three mechanisms but adds a fourth layer: supplying lipids with the same structure as the skin's own mortar. That is also the purpose of using emollients in the treatment of dry skin and barrier disorders — closing that deficit.^{Lodén, 2003}

For more on this: Barrier repair and moisturizing are not the same thing.

What Does Barrier Cream Do? The Mechanisms

1. It replaces the lipids the skin has lost

Experiments have shown that applying ceramide alone or cholesterol alone to a damaged barrier delays repair, whereas an equimolar mixture of the three lipids restores a normal repair rate.^{Man et al., 1993Man et al., 1996} That is why a good barrier cream is not content with being "ceramide-containing"; it carries all three lipids together. We explain why the ratio matters in this article.

2. It reduces water loss (TEWL)

In a randomized, placebo-controlled study, 7 days of topical dexpanthenol increased stratum corneum hydration and significantly lowered TEWL compared with the vehicle.^{Gehring & Gloor, 2000} Glycerin, meanwhile, allowed the barrier to recover faster after tape stripping and detergent damage.^{Fluhr et al., 1999} Alongside the lipid trio, these two helpers are standard components of a barrier cream.

3. It raises the irritation threshold

As the barrier grows stronger, the stinging and redness caused by actives such as retinol, AHA/BHA and vitamin C decrease; this is why barrier cream is also used as a "buffer layer" for actives. You will find how to layer it with which actives in our article on barrier-friendly ingredient combinations.

4. It breaks the itch–scratch cycle

In atopic skin, stratum corneum ceramide levels are markedly lower than in healthy skin, and this deficiency has been described as one of the etiologic factors behind dryness and barrier dysfunction.^{Imokawa et al., 1991} A ceramide-dominant lipid mixture improved both barrier measurements and the clinical picture in childhood atopic dermatitis.^{Chamlin et al., 2002}

Who Should Use Barrier Cream?

• Tight, flaking, reddened skin: The classic trio of barrier dysfunction; test yourself against the 10 signs.
• Anyone using retinol, AHA/BHA or benzoyl peroxide: As a buffer layer applied after the active.
• Skin prone to atopic dermatitis, eczema or rosacea: As the foundation of daily care, alongside treatment prescribed by a dermatologist; see the Atopic Skin Guide.
• Oily but dehydrated skin: Excess sebum hides the weakened barrier; a light-textured barrier cream is appropriate. How do you tell?
• Skin after a procedure: Following peeling, laser or microneedling; see the first 48 hours after microneedling.
• Skin under environmental stress such as winter weather, air conditioning or frequent hand washing.

Barrier cream is not essential for healthy skin with no complaints; adding it as a protective measure when you start using actives does, however, reduce tolerance problems.

What Should and Should Not Be in a Barrier Cream?

Fragrance contact allergy affects 0.7–2.6% of the general population and 5–11% of patch-tested patients;^{Reeder, 2020} since allergens pass more readily into skin with a compromised barrier, a fragranced product sold with a "repairing" claim contradicts its own purpose. We explain how to read a label step by step in our INCI reading guide; for the full set of selection criteria, see our guide on how to choose the best skin barrier cream.

How to Use Barrier Cream

The complete application protocol: step-by-step barrier cream application. We set out how soon to expect results in our week-by-week repair timeline.

What Do These Signs Mean for You?

Frequently Asked Questions

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