What Is Squalane? A Complete Guide to This Light Emollient
What Is Squalane? The Scientific Role of a Light Emollient in the Skin Barrier — A Complete Guide
Key Facts
- Squalane is the hydrogenated form of squalene, a natural component of human sebum — its saturated structure makes it resistant to oxidation.
- It makes up 12–15% of sebum; production begins declining from the 20s and drops markedly by the 50s.
- Squalane resists oxidation (a saturated structure) — squalene, by contrast, oxidizes easily (due to its double bonds) and can contribute to free-radical production.
- It's non-comedogenic (a rating of 0–1); safe to use even on oily and acne-prone skin.
- In rare genetic barrier disorders like onychogenesis imperfecta, squalane deficiency is among the core causes of barrier dysfunction.
- CIRÈLL's squalane source is plant-derived (from olives) — not petroleum-derived — produced with a sustainable, vegan formulation.
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- Squalane and Squalene: Two Different Molecules
- Sebum Composition: Squalane's Natural Place
- Squalane's Mechanism in the Skin Barrier
- Squalane's 8 Core Properties
- Squalane for Oily Skin: Why Is It Safe?
- Squalane Sources: Shark, Olive, Rice
- Which Conditions Is Squalane Ideal For?
- Combination With Other Actives
- Concentration and Formulation Choice
- Using Squalane in a Daily Routine
- Squalane With CIRÈLL
- Frequently Asked Questions
Squalane is a stable emollient obtained by hydrogenating squalene, which makes up 12-13% of human sebum. With its light texture and non-comedogenic structure, it's used as a barrier-supportive emollient across all skin types.
Squalane and Squalene: Two Different Molecules
In cosmetic ingredient lists, "squalane" and "squalene" refer to two distinct compounds. Understanding this difference is critical for both product selection and safety.
Squalene is a terpene naturally synthesized in the liver and in skin sebum. It's an unsaturated hydrocarbon with 30 carbons and 6 double bonds. These double bonds give it biological function in cell membranes; but the same double bonds make it extremely sensitive to oxidation. Using pure squalene in cosmetic formulations can, over time, oxidize and create irritating, comedogenic breakdown products on the skin surface.
Squalane, on the other hand, is obtained by catalytically hydrogenating squalene, saturating all of its double bonds. The molecule's carbon skeleton is preserved exactly; only the reactive double bonds are eliminated. This process gives squalane three key advantages: oxidation resistance, longer shelf life, and skin tolerability.
Squalene
C30H50 — 6 double bonds / Unsaturated structure / Sensitive to oxidation / A biological precursor molecule / Found naturally in sebum / Not stable in cosmetic formulation
Squalane
C30H62 — No double bonds / Saturated structure / Resistant to oxidation / Produced via hydrogenation / Safe and stable in cosmetic formulation / Not comedogenic
| Property | Squalene | Squalane |
|---|---|---|
| Chemical formula | C30H50 | C30H62 |
| Number of double bonds | 6 | 0 |
| Oxidation resistance | Low — oxidizes easily | High — remains stable |
| Cosmetic formulation | Not stable, rancidity risk | Stable, long shelf life |
| Comedogenic potential | High when oxidized | 0–1 (low) |
| Skin tolerability | Variable | Very high, across all skin types |
| Natural source | Human sebum, shark liver, plant sources | From hydrogenation of squalene |
| Biological role | Cholesterol biosynthesis precursor, membrane component | Emollient, barrier support |
Important Note: If a product label says "squalane," that's the saturated, oxidation-resistant version. If it says "squalene," that's the unsaturated version, generally not preferred in cosmetic formulation. Since the two are sometimes mistakenly used interchangeably in INCI listings, supplier transparency matters.
Sebum Composition: Squalane's Natural Place
Human sebum is a complex lipid mixture produced by the oil glands (sebaceous glands). This secretion, which lubricates the skin surface, reduces moisture loss, and shows antimicrobial activity, plays a critical role in the upper layer of the skin barrier. Squalene is one of the most prominent components of human sebum.
The full lipid composition of human sebum is summarized in the table below. Squalene's proportion in this composition is a notable feature distinguishing humans from other mammals; in most animal species, squalene is either absent from sebum or present only in very low concentration.
| Lipid Class | Share of Sebum (%) | Primary Function |
|---|---|---|
| Triglycerides | ~57% | Fatty acid storage, emollient |
| Wax esters | ~26% | Surface waterproofing |
| Squalene | ~12–15% | Antioxidant, emollient, antimicrobial precursor |
| Free fatty acids | ~15% | pH buffering, antimicrobial |
| Cholesterol and its esters | ~4–5% | Membrane fluidity |
| Other lipids | ~3% | Various protective functions |
Aging and the Loss of Squalene
Sebaceous gland activity declines with age, and squalene's share within sebum is disproportionately affected by this decline. Research shows that squalene levels in individuals over 50 are reduced by approximately 50% compared to those in their 20s. This decline leads to reduced antioxidant capacity at the skin surface, increased TEWL, and weakened emollient protection. Topical squalane application is one of the most direct ways to compensate for this physiological loss.
Squalane's Mechanism in the Skin Barrier
"Squalane supports the skin barrier through multiple mechanisms. It doesn't just lubricate the surface — it contributes at the molecular level to lipid organization in the stratum corneum."
Emollient Effect and Corneocyte Plasticization
Squalane's most fundamental mechanism is its emollient effect. It penetrates desiccated (dried and hardened) corneocytes in the stratum corneum and the surrounding lipid matrix, softening and making these structures more pliable. This function reduces flaking, cracking, and the sensation of tightness. Squalane's light molecular structure (a branched C30 hydrocarbon) makes this penetration fast and efficient.
Reducing Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL)
Squalane reduces transepidermal water loss by forming a thin, light film on the skin surface. This effect isn't the complete sealing that strong occlusives like petrolatum provide; it's better described as a semi-occlusive effect that supports moisture retention at physiological levels. This property is one of the key factors that makes squalane tolerable on both dry and oily skin.
Antioxidant Protection
Natural squalene in human skin is part of the surface antioxidant defense. When exposed to UV radiation, squalene preferentially oxidizes, contributing to the protection of other lipids and DNA from oxidative damage — functioning as a kind of "sacrificial antioxidant." Topical squalane application supports this antioxidant reserve; but squalane itself (due to its saturated structure) doesn't oxidize easily like squalene does, so it doesn't create harmful oxidative byproducts.
Microbiota Support
Sebum lipids shape the natural habitat of the skin microbiota. Topical formulations containing squalane mimic the sebum environment, reinforcing surface conditions that support the growth of protective microorganisms like Staphylococcus epidermidis.
Squalane's 8 Core Properties
The properties that distinguish squalane from other oils and emollients are compared in detail in the table below:
| Property | Status in Squalane | Significance |
|---|---|---|
| Emollient effect | Strong — softens corneocytes | Relieves dryness, flaking, and tightness |
| Antioxidant activity | Indirect (doesn't oxidize, preserves the squalene reserve) | Support against UV-driven oxidative damage |
| Moisture retention | Moderate — a semi-occlusive film | Reduces TEWL at a physiological level |
| Surface film formation | Light, breathable | Doesn't leave a heavy feel; doesn't pill |
| Comedogenic potential | 0–1 (very low) | Safe to use on oily and acne-prone skin |
| Skin type compatibility | All types — dry, oily, combination, sensitive | Universal tolerability |
| Texture and absorption | Very light, an oil that doesn't mix with water but absorbs quickly | Doesn't leave an oily feel; can be used under foundation |
| Oxidation resistance | Very high — long shelf life | Doesn't degrade in formulation; doesn't create irritating peroxides |
Comparing Squalane With Other Emollients
Squalane vs. Jojoba Oil
Both are light and non-comedogenic. Jojoba is actually a wax ester; squalane has a smaller molecule and penetrates the stratum corneum faster. Squalane has a longer shelf life.
Squalane vs. Rosehip Oil
Rosehip contains high linoleic acid — valuable for the barrier, but with high oxidation risk. Squalane is resistant to oxidation and can be a safer choice than rosehip for sensitive and acne-prone skin.
Squalane vs. Petrolatum
Petrolatum is the strongest TEWL reducer, but heavy and occlusive. Squalane is light and breathable, offering a more comfortable experience for daily use.
Squalane vs. Mineral Oil
Mineral oil is petroleum-derived, inert, and sealing. Squalane can be biomimetic (specific to human sebum) and plant-derived, interacting more naturally with skin.
Squalane for Oily Skin: Why Is It Safe?
People with oily skin often avoid oil-containing products. But squalane is a significant exception to this general rule, and the scientific basis for this exception is strong.
Structural Similarity to Sebum
Squalane is a molecule already present in human sebum. When applied to skin, it's perceived not as a foreign substance but as a familiar component. For this reason, it doesn't put oil glands into "alarm" mode and doesn't trigger extra sebum production as a compensatory mechanism. In fact, some studies suggest that the presence of sufficient surface lipid can help balance oil gland activity.
The Comedogenic Scale: 0–1
In cosmetic science, comedogenic potential is rated on a 0–5 scale. Squalane falls between 0–1 on this scale — meaning the likelihood of clogging pores is extremely low. For comparison: coconut oil is 4/5, cocoa butter is 4/5, wheat germ oil is 5/5. Squalane is among the safest emollients on this scale.
| Oil/Emollient | Comedogenic Scale (0–5) | Compatibility With Oily Skin |
|---|---|---|
| Squalane | 0–1 | Safe |
| Jojoba oil | 0–2 | Generally safe |
| Argan oil | 0 | Safe |
| Olive oil | 2 | Moderate — use with caution on oily skin |
| Coconut oil | 4 | High risk, not recommended for oily skin |
| Cocoa butter | 4 | High risk |
| Wheat germ oil | 5 | Very high risk |
The Relationship With Acne
Oxidized sebum byproducts (particularly oxidized squalene) play an important role in acne pathogenesis. Squalene secreted from the sebaceous glands is exposed to UV and oxidative stress within the follicular canal, converting into its oxidized form; this form triggers comedone formation. Topical squalane application, on the other hand, provides an oxidation-resistant form and may help balance the buildup of oxidized squalene. For this reason, squalane is considered both a safe and a potentially beneficial emollient for acne-prone skin.
Squalane Sources: Shark, Olive, Rice
Multiple raw material sources are used for squalane's industrial production. The choice among these sources matters for both sustainability and skin tolerability.
| Source | Squalene Concentration | Advantages | Disadvantages | Ethics/Sustainability |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Shark liver | 80–90% (deep sea) | High purity, decades of usage data | Animal source, not vegan, risk to endangered species | Problematic — fishing pressure |
| Olive (Olea europaea) | 0.2–0.7% (in olive oil) | Plant-based, vegan, broad supply network, the source used by CIRÈLL | Low concentration — requires a refining process | Good — sustainable farming possible |
| Rice bran | 0.1–0.3% | Plant-based, uses an agricultural byproduct | Lower concentration, refining cost | Good — byproduct utilization |
| Sugarcane (biotechnology) | High purity via fermentation | Vegan, sustainable, high purity | Relatively new technology, higher cost | Very good — closed-loop production |
| Amaranth seed | ~6–8% | Plant source, supply overlapping with the food sector | Small-scale supply, high cost | Good |
Shark-Derived Squalane: The Ethical Debate
Deep-sea shark liver was historically the largest raw material source for the squalane industry. But this practice has become a subject of serious ethical and environmental concern in recent years. An estimated 3 million sharks were hunted annually for liver oil; this drove some deep-sea shark species toward extinction risk. As plant-based alternatives proved equivalent in safety, tolerability, and efficacy, much of the industry has shifted toward plant sources.
CIRÈLL has consciously chosen not to use shark-derived squalane in this context. The squalane used in CIRÈLL formulations is sourced from olive-derived, vegan-certified origins.
Which Conditions Is Squalane Ideal For?
Squalane's broad tolerability profile makes it a first-choice or supportive option for many skin conditions:
Reduces TEWL, relieves flaking and tightness through its emollient effect. Shows synergistic effect when used together with a ceramide-containing barrier cream.
Doesn't clog pores due to its non-comedogenic structure. May help balance the buildup of oxidized squalene, offering support against comedone formation.
Pure squalane formulations free of fragrance, alcohol, and strong actives are among the least irritating emollient options.
Supports the natural squalene level that declines with age through topical application; strengthens the skin surface's antioxidant defense.
Due to its light structure, can be used alongside ceramide cream and corticosteroid-based treatments. Minimizes irritation risk.
When tolerance for active ingredients drops in the post-procedure period, squalane can be used as a safe emollient; it supports healing.
Situations Where Squalane Is Especially Beneficial
- In nighttime care for all skin types: Provides surface emollient support during the nighttime repair process.
- During transition periods for active ingredients: Can be added for barrier support when starting retinol or acid use.
- During winter skincare: Functions as an extra emollient layer during periods when low humidity and cold increase TEWL.
- During pregnancy and breastfeeding: A safe moisture-support option during a period when active-ingredient options are limited.
- In infant and children's skincare (with consultation): Suitable for sensitive skin in light, fragrance-free formulations.
Combination With Other Actives
One of squalane's biggest advantages is that it works in harmony with other actives. Taking on both a "carrier" and a "supportive" role, it can increase the bioavailability of active ingredients.
| Combination | Mechanism of Action | Recommended Use | Synergy Level |
|---|---|---|---|
| Squalane + Ceramide | Squalane is a surface emollient; ceramide is a lamellar barrier lipid — they complement each other | Formulated together in a moisturizer or barrier cream | Very high |
| Squalane + Hyaluronic Acid | HA is a humectant (draws water), squalane locks in moisture by forming a film | Layer squalane over the serum | High |
| Squalane + Retinol | Squalane buffers retinol's irritating effect; the emollient environment increases barrier tolerance | Can be mixed with the retinol product or applied right after | High |
| Squalane + Niacinamide | Niacinamide increases ceramide synthesis, squalane complements it as an emollient | In the same formulation or together in layering order | Moderate-high |
| Squalane + Ectoin | Ectoin is a cell protectant, squalane a surface stabilizer — a double layer against environmental stress | Ideal together in daytime care | Moderate-high |
| Squalane + Vitamin C | Both are antioxidants — squalane at the surface, vitamin C against cellular oxidative damage | In the morning routine, squalane can be layered over a vitamin C serum | Moderate |
| Squalane + Panthenol | Panthenol repairs keratinocytes, squalane provides surface support | A safe combination for sensitive and irritated skin | Moderate |
Combinations to Avoid
Squalane doesn't have a specific combination to avoid; it's a quite inert ingredient. However, a few practical points should be kept in mind:
- The oil-layer-over-water-based-serums rule: Squalane is oil-based; it should be applied after water-based serums, not before. Otherwise, absorption of the water-based active is blocked.
- Caution under SPF: Some chemical sunscreen filters are known to interact with oil-based ingredients. Squalane should be applied under the SPF product, not over it.
- Mixing pure squalane with heavily formulated products: Directly mixing pure squalane oil with a serum containing many actives dilutes concentrations. Layering order should be preferred instead.
Concentration and Formulation Choice
Squalane comes in different concentrations and different formulation types. The right choice varies by skin type, targeted effect, and other products used.
100% pure squalane oil (a raw active): The highest concentration — usually mixed as a few drops with a serum or cream, or applied directly. Can create an oily feel; especially suited for nighttime or body care. A few drops a day is sufficient for the face.
A serum or ampoule with 10–30% squalane: A water-and-squalane-based emulsion; light texture, suitable for daytime use. An ideal concentration range for oily skin. Combined formulation with hyaluronic acid or niacinamide is common.
A face cream with 3–10% squalane: Versatile — used as the emollient carrier in a daily moisturizer. Barrier creams formulated together with ceramide, cholesterol, and fatty acid fall into this category. CIRÈLL's TriBarrier formulation contains squalane this way.
A squalane-based cleansing oil: Used as the first step of the double-cleansing method. Effectively dissolves makeup and SPF; despite being an oil cleanser, since it's a rinse-off formula, comedogenic concern is minimal.
Hair and body products containing squalane: A few drops of pure squalane can be applied to hair ends for moisture and shine. Widely used as an emollient carrier in body lotions.
A Label-Reading Guide
| INCI Name | Source | Reliability |
|---|---|---|
| Squalane | Not specified (source should be asked) | Moderate — source matters |
| Squalane (Olea europaea-derived) | Olive — plant-based | High |
| Squalane (Sugarcane-derived) | Sugarcane — fermentation | High |
| Squalane (Shark liver-derived) | Shark liver — animal | Ethical concern — not preferred |
| Squalene | The unsaturated form — not ideal for cosmetics | Low — a different ingredient |
Using Squalane in a Daily Routine
Squalane can be integrated into the morning and night routine at many different points. Its flexibility makes it one of the easiest actives to add to a routine.
Integrating Into the Morning Routine
Cleansing: Wash the face with a pH-compatible gentle cleanser. If using a squalane-containing cleanser, rinse gently — squalane doesn't leave residue.
Toner/essence (optional): Apply a light water-based toner containing hyaluronic acid or panthenol. This step should come before squalane.
Active serum (if any): Apply your vitamin C or niacinamide-containing serum. A water-based serum comes before squalane.
Squalane or a squalane-containing moisturizer: Warm 1–3 drops of pure squalane in your palms and apply with light pressing motions. Or use your squalane-containing barrier cream at this step.
SPF 30+: Always apply sun protection as the final layer. Squalane stays under the SPF.
Integrating Into the Night Routine
Double cleanse: Remove makeup/SPF with a squalane-based cleansing oil, then rinse with a gentle foam cleanser.
Active treatment (if any): If applying retinol or AHA/BHA, follow this step. Squalane can be added right after retinol for irritation buffering.
Squalane + ceramide barrier cream: Apply your barrier cream formulated together with ceramide, cholesterol, and fatty acid. 1–2 drops of pure squalane can be added to extra-dry areas.
Squalane With CIRÈLL
CIRÈLL's formulation philosophy is built on re-presenting skin's own naturally produced components with scientific accuracy. From this perspective, squalane forms the emollient component of the Biomimetic TriBarrier System.
The squalane used in CIRÈLL products is olive-derived and vegan-certified. No shark-derived ingredient is used in CIRÈLL formulations. This choice isn't just an ethical stance; it's also supported by the scientific evidence that plant-derived squalane is equivalent to or superior to the animal source in chemical purity and consistency.
CIRÈLL's use of squalane is positioned as follows: the lamellar barrier matrix system made up of ceramide NP, AP, and EOP, cholesterol, and free fatty acids is supported by squalane, providing both deep barrier repair and surface emollient protection. Squalane takes on a carrier role in this formulation, facilitating the penetration of other active ingredients into the skin.
CIRÈLL's Squalane Approach: Olive-derived, vegan-certified squalane — an emollient support integrated into the ceramide + cholesterol + fatty acid barrier system. Reach our expert team to learn the most suitable squalane application for your skin type.
Conclusion
Squalane is a natural component of human sebum, transformed into a safe and stable cosmetic form. With its non-comedogenic nature, tolerability across all skin types, antioxidant profile, and light texture, it's one of modern dermocosmetics' most valuable emollient options. Providing emollient support alongside ceramide and cholesterol in skin barrier repair, squalane is a reliable option for dry, oily, sensitive, atopic, and mature skin types alike.
The critical difference between squalene and squalane — the saturated structure and oxidation resistance — makes this molecule unique for cosmetic formulations. Source selection also matters: plant-based (olive, sugarcane) squalane has surpassed shark-derived alternatives on both ethical and scientific grounds.
CIRÈLL's Biomimetic TriBarrier System integrates squalane into the ceramide-cholesterol-fatty acid matrix, offering both lamellar barrier repair and surface emollient protection. The plant-based squalane source is a concrete reflection of CIRÈLL's commitment to sustainability and transparency.
Squalane Protection With CIRÈLL: Olive-derived squalane works together with ceramide and cholesterol within the Biomimetic TriBarrier System — light, scientific, and sustainable emollient protection for all skin types. You can build your routine by reviewing our barrier repair protocol.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between squalane and squalene?
Squalene is an unsaturated hydrocarbon with 6 double bonds that the human body naturally produces in the liver and sebum. These double bonds make it sensitive to oxidation. Squalane, on the other hand, is squalene's hydrogenated derivative, with its double bonds eliminated. Thanks to its saturated structure, it's extremely resistant to oxidation, has a long shelf life, and can be used safely in cosmetic formulation. Always make sure the product label says "squalane."
I have oily skin — can I use squalane?
Yes, absolutely. Squalane scores 0–1 on the comedogenic scale — meaning the likelihood of clogging pores is very low. Moreover, it's an ingredient already found in human sebum, so skin doesn't perceive it as a "foreign oil" and doesn't ramp up extra sebum production. For oily skin, light serum formulations containing 10–30% squalane are the most suitable option. Pure 100% squalane oil can be used as a few drops in nighttime care.
Which skin types is squalane suitable for?
Squalane is suitable for nearly every skin type: dry skin, oily skin, combination skin, sensitive skin, mature skin, and atopic skin. Its non-comedogenic structure, availability in pure formulations free of fragrance and alcohol, and light texture provide universal tolerability. It particularly stands out as a safe emollient alternative in situations where active ingredients (retinol, acids) cause irritation.
How and when should squalane be applied?
Since squalane is an oil-based ingredient, it should be applied after water-based serums and toners, before SPF. Morning routine: cleanse → toner → active serum → squalane (or a squalane-containing moisturizer) → SPF. Night routine: cleanse → active treatment (retinol, etc.) → squalane + ceramide barrier cream. For pure squalane oil, 2–4 drops is sufficient for the face; warm it in your palms and apply with light pressing motions.
Can squalane be used together with retinol?
Yes, and this is quite a useful combination. Retinol is a powerful anti-aging active; but especially in the starting period, it can cause irritation, flaking, and dryness. Using squalane right after retinol application creates an irritation buffer, softens the stratum corneum, and increases retinol tolerability. This combination is an adaptation of the "retinol sandwich" technique (moisturizer-retinol-moisturizer).
Does squalane cause acne?
No. On the contrary, squalane can be beneficial for acne-prone skin. In acne pathogenesis, oxidized squalene triggers comedone formation. Topical squalane application, by offering an oxidation-resistant form, can help balance this buildup cycle. Since it scores 0–1 on the comedogenic scale, pore-clogging risk is extremely low. Light serum formulations should be preferred for acne-prone skin.
Why should olive be preferred as a squalane source?
Historically, the squalane industry used shark liver; but this practice pushed some shark species toward extinction risk. Olive-derived squalane offers scientifically equivalent purity and efficacy to the shark source while forming a vegan, sustainable, and ethical alternative. For this reason, CIRÈLL uses only plant-derived squalane.
Does squalane replace ceramide?
No, squalane and ceramide work through different mechanisms and can't replace one another. Ceramides are the fundamental building block of the lamellar lipid matrix in the stratum corneum; they form the barrier's biochemical infrastructure. Squalane, as an emollient, works at the skin surface; it reduces moisture loss and softens the surface. The most effective approach is using both together: ceramide provides deep barrier repair, squalane provides surface protection.
At what concentration is squalane most effective?
For dry and normal skin, 100% pure squalane can be used in nighttime care. For oily skin, serum formulations containing 10–30% squalane are suitable for daytime use. For versatile daily use, barrier creams with 3–15% squalane concentration formulated together with ceramide and other actives are suitable. The "more is better" rule doesn't apply — too much can create an oily feel on oily skin.
Is squalane safe during pregnancy?
Yes. Since squalane is the topical form of a component the human body naturally produces, it's considered safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding. While actives like retinol, salicylic acid, and high-dose AHA are restricted, squalane offers a safe emollient alternative. As always, consulting a doctor or dermatologist about products used during pregnancy is recommended.
Can squalane be used on hair too?
Yes. When applied to the hair shaft and ends, squalane provides a shiny, smooth appearance and reduces breakage at the ends. A few drops of squalane can be applied to the ends for curly and dry hair. It's not recommended for the scalp — it can increase oil buildup. Its light structure offers a more natural alternative compared to silicone-based options.
Can squalane be used in body care?
Yes, squalane is as suitable for body care as it is for facial care. It can be formulated as an emollient carrier in body lotions; a few drops of pure squalane can also be applied to damp skin after a shower for quick moisture lock-in. It's especially effective for dry hands, elbows, and knees. It can be preferred as an alternative to petrolatum or a heavy body cream.
Can an allergic reaction develop with squalane?
Squalane is among the ingredients with an extremely low risk of allergic reaction. Pure squalane formulations free of fragrance, alcohol, and preservatives can be used without a skin test; however, those with sensitive skin are advised to apply to a small test area (inner wrist or behind the ear) on first use. People with an olive allergy should be cautious with olive-derived squalane and should prefer products sourced from alternative origins.
Can squalane be used together with niacinamide?
Yes. Niacinamide (vitamin B3) increases ceramide synthesis and regulates sebum production; squalane provides emollient protection. These two ingredients support each other, and the combination offers both barrier-strengthening and sebum-balancing effect, especially for oily, acne-prone, and combination skin. Niacinamide is water-based; in application, the niacinamide serum should come first, followed by a squalane-containing moisturizer.
Does squalane reduce TEWL?
Yes, but it doesn't provide as strong an occlusive effect as petrolatum. As a semi-occlusive emollient, squalane measurably reduces transepidermal water loss. This effect becomes more pronounced especially in combination with ceramide and cholesterol. Squalane's TEWL-reducing effect is the core rationale for using it as the emollient component in barrier creams; it adds a moisture lock-in capacity that pure water or light gel formulations can't provide.
What is the difference between squalane and hyaluronic acid? Are both moisturizers?
They work through different mechanisms. Hyaluronic acid is a humectant — it draws water from the atmosphere and the dermis, storing moisture in the stratum corneum. Squalane is an emollient — it forms a film at the surface, slowing moisture loss and softening skin texture. The most effective use is combining the two: HA draws moisture, squalane locks it in. For this reason, an HA serum should be applied first, followed by squalane or a squalane-containing moisturizer.
Scientific Sources
- Michalak M, et al. Squalane and its role in skin lipid maintenance — Cosmetic applications. Antioxidants. 2021.
- Elias PM, Brown BE, Ziboh VA. The permeability barrier in essential fatty acid deficiency: evidence for a direct role for linoleic acid in barrier function. J Invest Dermatol. 1980;74(4):230-233.
- Picardo M, et al. Sebaceous gland lipids. Dermatoendocrinol. 2009.
- Zouboulis CC. Acne and sebaceous gland function. Clin Dermatol. 2004.
- Loden M. Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2003.
- Proksch E, et al. The skin: an indispensable barrier. Exp Dermatol. 2008.
- Meckfessel MH, Brandt S. The structure, function, and importance of ceramides in skin. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2014.
- Rawlings AV, Harding CR. Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatol Ther. 2004.
- Feingold KR. The outer frontier: the importance of lipid metabolism in the skin. J Lipid Res. 2009.
CIRÈLL's Squalane Choice: Skin's Own Language
In CIRÈLL's formulation, squalane sits as an emollient skin recognizes without hesitation. Because it's a natural component of sebum, it's easily recognized and accepted by skin.
- Plant-derived squalane (olive oil / sugarcane): purer, more stable, and more ethically produced compared to the animal source.
- Non-comedogenic: provides an emollient, light protective film without clogging oil glands.
- Usable on all skin types: its light oiliness gives it very high tolerance on oily and combination skin.
- A secondary antioxidant benefit: squalene's oxidative-damage-reducing property is partially preserved in squalane as well.
At CIRÈLL, squalane isn't there to improve cosmetic feel — it's there as the most biocompatible component of the emollient layer.